The Truth About the Four Seasons

It may be Istanbul's former prison (ever see Midnight Express?), but today the yellow walled building in the city's historic Sultanahmet district is the Four Seasons, the top hotel in Europe according to Conde Nast and Travel + Leisure.

But what exactly do you get for a winter rate "special" of $300 per night? You do get a huge room with a Bose stereo, spacious marble bathroom, the most comfortable bed I've ever slept in, and incredible service (Our concierge: "You should take the Bosporous cruise, Mr. Faries. We'll have the taxi waiting for you in fifteen minutes and when you board the boat, sit towards the back right for the best sunset views of the city.") Hit the roof deck and you'll be smack in the middle of the Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque, the perfect spot to hear the alternating chants of the noon call to prayer. Behind you is the Topkapi Palace, where several centuries worth of Sultans entertained their harems and ruled the Ottoman world.

But believe it or not, your $300 doesn't get you breakfast in the morning - croissants and juice will set you back $30 if you want it. And if you happen to down a couple glasses of Chivas in the hotel bar with a local journalist, you might find a $70 bill waiting for you afterwards. Ouch.

"This place is a money suck," Dana said as we checked out. No disagreement here, but that raises an interesting question: Would I ever stay here on a return trip to Turkey? Sweet mercy, yes.